No visit to Tehran is complete without a look at the former US Embassy and the dramatic anti-American images on its walls. These images, commissioned by the government, show an Iran that is sometimes represented in western media, yet one which we rarely saw evidence of. Whilst palaces, nature, ancient historical sites, deserts, hospitable people and great food contribute strongly to the impression of the country, for the tourist a place like this is also interesting to see, as the events that emerged from here have contributed to today’s political situation… and you have to admit these murals are rather unique. Not sure you’d see something like this in many other places in the world.
Murals on the walls of the former US embassy, Tehran.
The Persian name for the embassy can be translated as the ‘US Den of Espionage’ or ‘Nest of spies‘. It was here in 1953 that the CIA orchestrated a coup that brought down the government of Mohammad Mossadegh. In came Mohammad Reza Shah who enjoyed US support and influence for the next 25 years. Finally he was pushed out and students (concerned another coup may occur) stormed the embassy and held 52 diplomats and citizens hostage for 444 days. This Iran hostage crisis, which began in November 1979, was significant not only in regards to US-Iran relations but also in terms of strengthening the prestige of Khomeini, the new leader, in post-Revolution Iran.
Former US Embassy /’Nest of spies’, Tehran.
These days the place is home to the Revolutionary Guard (Sepah), those who are charged with protecting the country’s Islamic system. It is hard to see much beyond the walls of the building itself, which Sepah use for training.
Round the corner from the embassy is Laleh Park where people played table tennis, shot hoops, had picnics, exercised or, as we did, enjoyed a walk in the green space, looking at sculptures and art (with much less hostile themes!).
Sculptures, Laleh Park
Sculptures, Laleh Park, Tehran
Our last day in Tehran was April 1st. It was some kind of holiday called Nature Day. Unfortunately for all those hoping to get out and about to enjoy the beautiful nature, it was cold and wet. Antony and I decided to explore some of the city anyway, despite the weather, before leaving on the overnight train for Tabriz.
Quiet Street above & National Museum below. Tehran.
It was rather weird to walk around major streets in the nation’s capital of 9 million people (16 million if you include the wider metropolitan area!) and hardly see a soul. There were almost no cars on the road and nobody around. The locals were probably indoors spending time with their friends and family where it was warm and dry! Much of the population was likely still out of town with their families in their home towns and villages, concluding Noruz celebrations.
We quite enjoyed our wander, noticing cool statues, art on walls and sculptures in the park on Valiasr street. After a while though it got so cold (I didn’t have enough layers on) and it took us forever to find a taxi to get to the nearest metro station… but we made it eventually!
Art on a wall & statue outside the Post Office, Tehran.
Sculptures on a very quiet Valiasr St. Tehran
Arty installations, Valiasr St. Tehran
We saw more painted eggs… so many different styles. They really brighten up the street on a grey and dreary day.
Painted eggs, Valiasr St. Tehran
Our time in Tehran ended on such a nice note with time spent with someone I had met through the language exchange site www.italki.com. She and her nephew collected us from a metro station and took us to a lovely restuarant. They didn’t have a NZ flag for the table but the waiters came out with the closest thing – an Aussie one! We enjoyed our new friends’ great company before they kindly dropped us off at the railway station.
Dining in Tehran – note the Australian & Iranian flags on the table.