Kutaisi, Georgia

Wizz Air flies in and out of Kutaisi from all over Europe for very few euros so it’s likely the budget traveller to Georgia will fly via this city rather than Tbilisi. Our first visit to Georgia saw us finish in Kutaisi where we then flew to Warsaw. Our second visit had us arrive in Kutaisi from Munich and leave from there to Budapest. 

Kutaisi it turns out is more than just a place for budget airline arrivals and departures. The town has quite a nice feel to it, with its attractive central area around Kutaisis Bulvari Park and Pushkinis Qucha. In April we stayed in an extremely cheap hotel near the centre ($9.25 NZ per night!), it was 10 minutes walk along the street to the Tsentraluli Medani (central square) with its grand Colchis Fountain, adorned with large scale copies of the famous gold jewellery from the town of Vani. On the other side of the park was a colourful market.

In the park & central square, Kutaisi

A Kutaisi Market.

On one corner of the park there was a great cafe serving all sorts of herbal teas and yummy desserts in a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Here we played a game of chess one night, which involved Antony patiently explaining the rules and some strategy as I am very much a beginner!

Chess, Tea & Desserts at a cosy cafe in Kutaisi.

We walked across the river and uphill to get to Bagrati Cathedral which sits on Ukimerioni Hill and has fabulous views across the city.  Bagrati Cathedral was built in 1003, during the reign of King Bagrat the third who had it built here. He is buried here and the church bears his name. In 1692 Ottoman troops set off an explosion that brought down the tall drum and pointed dome ceiling leaving the cathedral in a ruined state. In 1994 it was given UNESCO World Heritage list status after intermittent restoration efforts throughout the 20th century. Between 2009-2012 it was fully renovated.

Bagrati Cathedral, Kutaisi

Icons, Bagrati Cathedral

There are a couple of monasteries not far from Kutaisi which we visited during our first stay in the city. First up was the Gelati Monastery complex, located on a wooded hillside 8km northeast of Kutaisi. It is rather famous not least because the great 12th century king David the Builder is buried here, along with other Georgian rulers. We dutifully stepped on David the Builder’s grave which lies inside the south gate. He wanted all who entered the monastery to step on his tomb, a rather humble gesture for such a powerful man.

At the South Gate of Gelati Monastery – David the Builder’s grave (a 12th Century King)

In the 12th century Gelati became a great centre for Christian culture and learning, described as a ‘second Jerusalem’ and ‘new Athens’ by those in the know at the time. In 1510 the Ottoman Turks set fire to the complex but it was subsequently restored. In 1922, under communism, the monks were cast out, but the churces were reconsecrated in 1988.

View of the Church of St Nicholas from the South Gate of Gelati Monastery – beautifully located.

We first visited the Church of St Nicholas- one of the smaller churches of the complex. It is unusual in that it was built with an arcaded base. We enjoyed the views from here. Then it was off to the main cathedral which had amazingly bright and colourful frescoes. They were painted between the 12th and 18th centuries. Almost every surface in the church was covered with frescoes- every wall, arch, the whole ceiling… it was rather special. The apse ceiling from the 1120s (!!) was beautiful! Note below David the Builder (holding the church), far right in the line of noble figures.

Main Cathedral entrance & side wall, Gelati Monastery.

Top: Looking up at the ceiling. Bottom picture shows Georgian nobles with King David the Builder on the far right (holding the church). Gelati Monastery.

Top: A couple praying at the altar of the Main Cathedral. Bottom pic: The famous 1120s mosaic of the Virgin and Child, with Archangels Michael (L) and Gabriel (R) looking down from the apse ceiling.

Having been sufficiently impressed by the detail and the many stories these frescoes tell, we headed to yet another church on the complex, the Church of St George. Here too were more beautiful colourful frescoes!

(L) View from entrance. (R) The central icon – St George – under glass for kissing by worshippers. Church of St George, Gelati Monastery.

Top: Looking up at the ceiling. They really don’t leave any surface untouched! Bottom: altar icons. Church of St George, Gelati Monastery.

After Gelati we headed to the small but spectaluarly located little Motsameta Monastery. It sits on a clifftop, above a bend of the Tskhaltsitela River, 5km from Kutaisi.

Motsameta Monastery – spot it among all the green in the top picture.

Nice views from Motsameta Monastery.

Motsameta Monastery.

A fire in 1923 destroyed the frescoes that once completely covered the church so it has a more modern look inside than Gelati. But there is one thing that makes a visit inside this church rather unique – a tomb of two saints whose story I will outline below. If you walk under the tomb three times without touching the walls it is said your prayers will be answered. We saw several people going under the tomb and also kissing and praying at the tomb.

The church and bell tower date from the 11th century but they are built on the site of a 4th century church and village. The place has quite a history! Between 720 and 730 two brothers who were lords of the region refused to convert to Islam when the Arabs conquered the area. They were thus tortured and thrown in the river with stones tied around their necks. Their bodies washed up on the riverbank below the monastery and they were buried as martyrs in the church’s crypt. (There is also a story that lions were responsible for bringing the bodies from the river up the hill to the church!) The Arabs destroyed the church but later, in the 11th century, King Bagrat III decided a monastery should be built on the ruins of the old church in the memory of the brothers who were considered national heroes and saints by this time. It is this monastery we can see today. The brothers did not rest in peace here however as in 1923 the Soviet secret police seized the bones of the saints and put them in the museum in Kutaisi. After a local teacher protested, the relics were returned but the skeletons were not in such good order. Apparently the agents who took the bones suffered terrible fates; one was killed by his son, one went insane and the third died of tuberculosis. That will teach them!

I’m guessing on the doors are the brothers now considered martyrs and saints. On the right a woman walks under the brothers’ tomb three times to have her prayers answered!

Top: The tomb. Bottom: The top of the tomb, the skulls of the brothers are visible under the veil.

Having seen the main tourist sites on our first visit, our few days back in Kutaisi in October were spent in a different part of the city. We had some shopping to do (needed socks, tights and underwear!) so walked from our hostel in a residential area down to the bus station and explored the market and shops nearby. It was interesting to see more of the regular part of the city. Antony got a hair cut and we had some chill out time at our hostel- where we were the only people staying. No staff, no other tourists- just us all alone! Bit odd but ok. Here are some shots from that visit to finish off this post.

Top: a not very user-friendly bike lane! Bottom: typical apartment block

Overloaded Lada & a bus, Kutaisi

Buying grapes at a little market. Lots of fejoa around too.

Antony getting a haircut in Kutaisi.

About the Author

Born and bred in New Zealand's South Island, this Kiwi likes getting 'out there' exploring the world and its wonderful people! I have taught English in South Korea, volunteered in Kyrgyzstan, studied in Denmark, lived in community in Scotland and visited friends and wonderful people all over the world. Now married to Antony the adventures continue together. I have a habit of being notoriously behind in my blog - but will do what I can to record my adventures, as much for my own record as anything (as I have a terrible memory). After an amazing year in Iran and Europe, in 2016, Antony and I are off again September 29 2019 - Feb 1 2020. Hopefully I can blog about most of what we get up to! Enjoy the read! Kate x

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